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Kocham rap. Nie znoszę reggae. Kiedy wyczuję reggae w rapie, od razu kawałek jest dla mnie spalony. Przynajmniej tak było dotychczas. Na Karaibach reggae leci wszędzie. Na ulicach, na lotniskach, w knajpach. I nuci każdy. Pani kierowca w rozklekotanym busie, nazywanym przez mieszkańców autobusem miejskim, wysoko na pierwszy rzut oka postawiona pracownica portu lotniczego, skrzętnie wypełniająca jakieś dokumenty przy filiżance kawy, nieprzyzwoicie wychudzony gość, tańczący w środku dnia na ulicy z puszką  piwa.

Tak, ten rozkołysany typ szczególnie zapadnie mi w pamięci. Normalnie każdy pewnie uznałby go za pijanego bądź bezdomnego. Ale tam na nikim nie robił wrażenia. A, sądząc po jego "stylówce", nie mógł być bez grosza przy duszy. Jasno zielony modny t-shirt idealnie komponował się z bejsbolówką. Karaiby = reggae. Nie miałam wyjścia. Musiałam wkręcić się w ten klimat. Przyszło mi to jednak, o dziwo, niesamowicie szybko.

- Jakie plany na weekend? - rzucił od niechcenia kumpel z pracy w czwartek. - Lecę do Ameryki - odpowiedziałam tonem, w jakim stwierdza się, że ugotuje się obiad, pójdzie na zakupy i pospaceruje po parku. - Dobra, a tak na poważnie?

O wyspie Sint Maarten dowiedziałam się dawno. Pewnie nawet wcześniej niż o chińskiej górze Hua Shan, na której byłam w grudniu. Zobaczę coś gdzieś, podjaram się, postanowię, że kiedyś na pewno tam pojadę. A później... później stwierdzam, że w sumie po co czekać?

Na przełomie sierpnia i września w pewien upalny weekend siedzieliśmy na tarasie widokowym na Okęciu. Byłam tam po raz pierwszy. Uwielbiam latać. Nie miałam jednak nigdy zajawki na przesiadywanie pod płotem warszawskiego lotniska z tzw. spottersami i oglądanie wielkich maszyn z daleka. Rozmarzyliśmy się. O pewnej słonecznej plaży na pewnej rajskiej wyspie, gdzie olbrzymie stalowe potwory przelatują kilkanaście metrów ponad głowami plażowiczów. - A zobaczę z ciekawości, po ile są bilety - rzuciłam. Wróciłam do mieszkania i od razu dorwałam się do skyscanner.pl. Pogrzebałam trochę i znalazłam loty za dwa tysiące złotych w obie strony. Do Ameryki Środkowej?! Biorę w ciemno. Raz się żyje.

Tak, poleciałam na drugi koniec świata na dwa dni fotografować samoloty. W mojej ocenie, nie ma sensu lecieć tam na dłużej. Sint Maarten to wyspa, na której nie ma zbyt wielu atrakcji turystycznych (a są jakiekolwiek?). Nie ma klimatycznych miasteczek, zabytków ani zapierających dech w piersiach widoków. Ale są samoloty. I z tego słynie to miejsce. Jeżeli ktoś się nimi nie jara, lepiej niech wybierze inną karaibską wyspę. Ta w połowie należy do Holandii, w połowie do Francji.  Mimo że jesteśmy w Ameryce, możemy więc płacić euro. Zupełnie się to jednak nie opłaca. O wiele lepiej wyjdziemy, mając na miejscu dolary. Dla mieszkańców Sint Maarten $1 = €1.

Kiedy dotarliśmy na słynną plażę Maho, spojrzeliśmy się na siebie i wybuchnęliśmy śmiechem. To naprawdę tutaj? Pięć metrów piasku na krzyż zaraz przy wąziutkiej jezdni i siatce, ogradzającej lotnisko Juliana. To wszystko. Nic dziwnego, że plaża ma status najgorszej na Karaibach. Dodatkowo jest najgłośniejsza na świecie. Kto chciałby wypoczywać w takich warunkach?

Samoloty lądują często. Jako że nie jest to jednak wielkie lotnisko, w większości i maszyny rozmiarami nie powalają na kolana. Na coś okazałego trzeba czekać. Mimo 40 stopni w słońcu i niesamowitej wilgoci, na Maho znajdziemy osoby ubrane od stóp do głów. Nie przyszli się tu opalać ani kąpać w błękitnym oceanie. Siedzą na murku wpatrzeni w telefony bądź laptopy i odświeżają listę przylotów. Dobrze, że na plaży łapie WiFi z pobliskiej knajpy. Skutecznie chłodzą z kolei truskawkowe drinki z rumem. Czas mierzą tutaj opóźnienia lądowań. Można się zresetować. Inny świat.

Kilkanaście ton żelastwa przelatujące zaraz nad głową wywołuje niesamowitą adrenalinę. Jeszcze większe emocje towarzyszą jednak startom. Śmiałkowie łapią się ogrodzenia i czekają, aż olbrzym odpali silniki i spróbuje ich zdmuchnąć. Co prawda nikt w powietrzu nie lata, co najwyżej czapki i kapelusze, ale powiew potrafi sprawić, że traci się równowagę. Na mnie największe wrażenie zrobił... cofający się ocean. Nieważne, czy był akurat przypływ, czy odpływ, woda pod wpływem podmuchu z samolotu wyglądała tak, jakby ktoś ją pchał wbrew jej woli.

Jeśli komuś marzy się samolotowy raj, radzę unikać podróżowania liniami Insel Air. Jak się okazało, karaibski przewoźnik lata jak chce, a kiedy raz na miesiąc uda mu się wystartować bądź wylądować o czasie, obsługa lotniska na Sint Maarten otwiera szampany. My na swój lot na Curacao czekaliśmy prawie sześć godzin, przez co nie mieliśmy szans na to, aby zdążyć na samolot do Amsterdamu, a później do Warszawy. Przymusowy nocleg na innej karaibskiej wyspie wiązał się z kolejnymi przygodami. Bo niby wiadomo, że linie lotnicze w takiej sytuacji muszą zapewnić nam hotel, ale pamiętajmy, że to Ameryka Środkowa, a wyspa, na której wylądowaliśmy słynie głownie z przemytników narkotyków. O ile na Sint Maarten czułam się jak w USA, o tyle Curacao to już typowa Ameryka Południowa, gdzie mówi się głównie w dziwnej odmianie języka hiszpańskiego. O wszystko trzeba milion razy dopytać, wszystko trzeba sobie wywalczyć. I mieć się na baczności.

Ostatecznie zamiast w poniedziałek o 16:00, wróciliśmy do Polski we wtorek popołudniu. Niemiłosiernie zmęczona, ale szczęśliwa, że spełniłam kolejne marzenie, od razu po powrocie włączyłam youtube'a i przeboje Boba Marleya.

"Don't worry about a thing,
'Cause every little thing gonna be all right.
Singin': "Don't worry about a thing,
'Cause every little thing gonna be all right"


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